Scottish Tartans
People visiting Scotland over the past several hundred years have noted the Tartan worn by its inhabitants. These records refer to tartan as being ‘mottled’, ‘marled’ and ‘sundrie coloured’, but perhaps the best description comes from the Gaelic word breacan, meaning chequered.
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The Gaelic term is what best defines a tartan… a check-like arrangement of a tartan pattern, or the ‘sett’, which is repeated over and over again until the desired length of cloth is produced.
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There are a few tartans which are restricted, meaning not everyone can wear them. The Balmoral tartan for example, can only be worn by members of the British Royal Family and there are still some clan tartans that can only be worn if the Clan Chief allows you to. For the rest, there are no laws about which tartan you may wear, just traditions, so you can choose a design that you like and wear it with pride.
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Traditionally, though, people wear the tartan that relates to their surname, for example, Mac Gregor or Stewart. There are many sources online to help you find your tartan, but the best is through your Scottish lineage. If there is no appropriate name tartan, look for a district tartan connected to the area where your ancestors lived or if you have a link to a particular clan (e.g. I am descended from Stewarts, so I choose to wear the Black Stewart tartan).
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There are also a number of tartans which have been designed for anyone to wear, which are referred to as universal tartans. So although universal tartans are not associated with a family/clan, you can be safe in the knowledge that choosing one will not upset anyone.
Royal Stewart
The Royal Stewart or Royal Stuart tartan is the best-known tartan retrospectively associated with the royal House of Stewart, and is also the personal tartan of the British monarch, presently King Charles III. The sett was first published in 1831 in the book The Scottish Gaël by James Logan. Theoretically, this tartan should not be worn without the express permission of the British monarch. However, the Scottish Register of Tartans observes that in practice, due to its popularity, it has become a universal tartan, which can be worn by anyone who doesn't have their own clan tartan.
The Royal Stewart also comes in a number of variants that I prefer to the 'original', for example the Weathered Hunting or Black Stewart.
Black Stewart
The modern Stewart Black tartan is a classic black-based tartan with colourful overchecks, swapping the main red in the Royal Strewart tartan.
Isle of Skye
The Isle of Skye is a stunning tartan which its soft, subtle colouring. The colours and sett pattern were designed to celebrate the ravishing natural beauty of the Isle of Skye, which is often referred to as the Misty Isle.
MacLeod of Lewis
Nicknamed "Loud MacLeod", this tartan is generally referred to as "MacLeod Dress" or "MacLeod of Lewis" and sometimes "Macleod, Yellow of Raasay", it's one of the most instantly recognisable of Scottish tartans. The first image of the sett, thought to date from the 1830s, is a portrait of John Macleod, 13th of Raasay
Weathered Stewart Hunting
The Royal Stewart tartan generally referred to simply as the Royal Tartan, has been associated with the Royal House of Stewart for several centuries. The Stewart monarchs were descended from Walter, High Steward of Scotland, who married Princess Marjory, daughter of King Robert the Bruce. Their son, King Robert II, was the first Stewart king.
This variant is the hunting tartan, designed to blend with the countryside.
Scotland Forever
The Scotland Forever is a tartan with purple and green colours representing the Scottish mountains and glens and the blue and white colours are that of the saltire flag. 'Scotland Forever!' is without doubt the best known war cry of the traditional Scottish regiments. It was most famously used by the Scots Greys on their timely and victorious charge at Waterloo in 1815
Black Watch
This tartan commemorates Scotland’s most famous army regiment, Black Watch, which was first formed in 1725. Today the Black Watch are known as The Black Watch, 3rd Battalion, Royal Regiment of Scotland (3 SCOTS) and an infantry battalion of the Royal Regiment of Scotland. World-renowned and instantly recognisable, the Black Watch tartan is a staple of the highlandwear industry and represents Scottish culture across the globe.
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Lindsay
The Lindsay tartan is often first recognised by its colour, which is unusual as the precise shade of tartan colours is normally left to the discretion of the weaver. The sett is similar to Stewart of Athol, but for the black, rendered in Lindsay as dark blue.
Other Tartans
There are a myriad of tartans with ever more being added. You can view the officially recognised tartans at the Scottish Register of Tartans for yourself, however, we have listed a few here as examples.
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American Tartans
At the time of writing there are 70 registered tartans that relate to America, American or USA titles. However, there are far more than this if you count the state and organisation tartans as well. Examples of these are as follows.
American Heritage
Designed by William C (Rocky) Roeger III of USA Kilts to honour Americans with or without Celtic heritage. It is a private fashion tartan designed for anyone to wear regardless of clan affiliation.
California State
Designed by J Howard Standing, Tarzana, California, and Thomas Ferguson, Sydney, British Columbia. Adopted as the official California State tartan by the State Legislature on July 23rd 2001 by California Governor Gray Davis. For general use by all those living in the State. Closely based on the Muir tartan (STR ref #3039) after the famous botanist and environmentalist, John Muir, who lived in California.
Scottish American
A tartan supplied with a Crest and Highlandwear by Gaelic Themes of Glasgow. Designed by Viking Technology Ltd of Glasgow and a sister to #6105, Irish American (original Scottish Tartans Authority reference). Can be worn by any Americans of Scottish descent.
Texas Bluebonnet
Registered with the Scottish Tartans Society 15.Jan 1985. Designed by June Prescott McRoberts (1922-1999), proprietor of the 'Thistles & Bluebonnets' store in Salado, Texas. The tartan was adopted as the Sesquicentennial Tartan and was officialy adopted as the Texas State Tartan on 25th May 1989.
Canadian Tartans
At the time of writing, there are 49 tartans with the title Canada or Canadian. With such a large proportion of the Scottish diaspora this is hardly surprising and also include tartans for the armed forces. Examples of universal Canadian tartans include the following.
Clans and Scottish Societies of Canada
Clans and Scottish Societies of Canada (CASSOC) is a federally chartered non-profit charity in Canada. Since its foundation in 1975 its mandate has been to advance Scottish Cultural Heritage in Canada. Through a collaborative process, the membership designed this tartan which was formally adopted November 17th, 2022.
Canadian Centennial
Designed by Arthur Bottomly for Peter MacArthur & Co, Hamilton, Scotland, to mark the 100th Anniversary of the creation of the Dominion of Canada in 1867, this tartan was approved by the Centennial Commission. The six colours represent the wealth of Canada in its natural resources and the red and white from the national flag.